Even apart from its falling leaves, Orvieto was beautiful. We stumbled into a tiny ceramics shop and spoke to the owner who made everything herself. Seeing her brushes and glazes made me miss the wheel so much. At the end of our conversation, she wished us a "buona vita." So sweet.
We went on an underground tour then saw more stray cats than anywhere else in Italy. I was being uncharacteristically picky about where to eat for lunch and only settled when we found a tiny hole in the wall with handwritten notes from visitors everywhere. I had truffle pasta, David had polenta with wild boar, we shared the wine.
There isn't much else, but I think the town was the most charming in its simplicity. It had the narrow alleyways decorated with vines and bathed in sunlight all along buildings were worn throughout the centuries-- everything you'd imagine Italy to be.